2000 Century: Temperature reduction fans problem
- Thread writer wrongturninwv
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- Buick Possession
- 2000 Buick Century
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- S.W. Ontario Canada
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- 2022 Regal Sportback - 2010 Yamaha R6 (track bike) Departed cars: 92 LeSabre, 98 Regal, 02 GrandPrixGT
If the wheel hub bearings and the speed sensors within them are good, then the ABS and Trac problem will be with the wiring at the control arm going to the hubs. Here is a telecasting showing the Acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene Trac problem, how to name information technology and fix it.
The gun gauge problem will exist with worn out contacts on the fuel level off sending unit inside the armored combat vehicle. Recently I study on another thread on this forum almost a product called "Techtron Plus ". I think it's a thawed in a bottle you put inside the armored combat vehicle at fill upwardly. Only I have no idea on how successful the stuff is. More than easier to try it than buying a new sending unit ( $60 to $100) and swapping with the old one. Fuel pump / sending unit accession is from the back seat through the trunk opening, below trunk carpet right by the support seat is a get at panel to the fuel pump.
Those Fans not working, but working when temp sensing element is unplugged has to Be diagnosed aside a car magician ( ie... Guru with a scope on a rope and other electrical probes ).. Unless you know how to track low-spirited electrical gremlins. Maybe someone World Health Organization had the same problem will chime in and tell apar you the fix. Just I wouldn't hold my breath.
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- 2000 Buick Century
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- 2000 Buick Century
You have a service locomotive scant on just no codes, did you check for a panting fuse for the OBDII embrasure, sometimes it is the pocket lighter fuse.
None I did not. Just I will check IT out. Just can not get wind how when I unplug the 3 wire plug to the temp sensor that the temporary calibre along the dash still works. Is there some other sensor for the gage ???You have a service engine light on but none codes, did you check for a blown conflate for the OBDII embrasure, sometimes it is the cigarette lighter fuse.
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- 2003 one C
Did you ever get this puzzle worked out? My dash isn't freaked prohibited ilk yours but my AC and fans appear to have the exact very issue.No I did not. But I will check it out. But can not see how when I unplug the 3 telegraph plug to the temp sensing element that the temp estimate on the dash still kit and caboodle. Is there some other sensor for the standard of measurement ???
- #7
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- 1996 Century Station wagon
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- 2003 century
The wife has had some shifting problems(doesn't dress it when im driving, making it tumid to troubleshoot) so this power explain some issues(fans & loose). Looks like IT's meter to pull out the creeper and stands this weekend. Thanks for the info!non sure enough about the 2000, only my 96 century and my 99 olds alero some had a sick settled wire that ran to the side crank sensor and the speed sensor, amphetamine sensor wires were liquid, Miles per hour gauge would bounce and transmittance wouldn't change properly sometimes, I pulled mine and just covered the bare wires with a good bit of electric car tape and tried to place them away from exhaust manifold paper, if I'm even pull out that right smart I will professionally haunt the harness with replacing the wires, solder, high temperature shrink, and looms, will make them long sufficiency to get far away from manifold
- #9
- 40
- 6
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- Buick Ownership
- 1996 Hundred Wagon
Did you ever get this puzzle worked retired? My dash isn't freaked out like yours but my AC and fans seem to have the exact same issue.
my ac doesn't even turn one of the fans connected, the other works fine, the relay to the inactive fan is good, the fan is good, and the harness seems to be dandy as PCM detects a fault if electrical relay plug is removed in the trigger off wires. mine does odd things, the bragging fan kicks on and keeps the car cool IT ranges from 202 (good operating temp) to 220 (seems to be safe for this locomotive) these readings are by Hieronymus Bosch 1300 scantool, the goad changes between 1/4 to 1/2 and back when sitting still in ANY kind of weather, I specifically asked for the 195 and non the 180 thermostat when doing LIM, reported to scantool this is right, when rolling the needle remains at 1/4 and the scantool reports 200-202. my presumptuousness would be the correct procedure for these fans (on mine a large internal radiator ane and a small external condenser one) would be to turn on the small front one whenever the AC is on and whenever the temporary worker bumps say ended 205. and activate the large one in higher temps as a supplement and a failsafe. that's just plebeian sense to me.
I have seen differences in temp sending units and where the dial sits. in that respect are three wires sol at the least this detector is sending two signals at nearly 3, I may go back to the principal for temp sensor if I'm rearward in to where I can drive to IT without perturbing about the socket breaking information technology, I also may just wire the emotional fan with a dual electrical relay, the carry one (for whatever it does) so the PCM doesn't complain, and and so a second extraordinary to just run this one day in and day out when the car paint is on.
Some of the newer models Crataegus laevigata run with dual broadside by side fans (I think my alero did) this fans had deuce speeds, slow and imperviable they May have level had a three prong wire.
on my 96 century I give birth been finished the motor, that one temp sensor by the thermoregulator is the only one, I think the 99 with the 3400 was the same agency.
These cars seem to be plagued with electrical issues, many can be solved with a tiny monocle screwdriver to bend more tension back into the plug and the application of a bit dielectric grease.
I'm still nonplused why my piffling fan habit come near, I think it use to with the compressor, and my Alternating current unruffled blows ice cold. ive gotten a lot of the great unwashe pointing towards the PCM. but mine was so well kept out of the hotness I doubt information technology would personify the issue.
ive been rebuilding electronics from the 30s-90s and even whatever forthwith when a processed board that is more high-ticket than the equipment just burns KO'd overdue to heat.
ive never torn one skyward, but from what I gather a PCM is a very rudimentary computer, computer parts date for one chief reason, electrolytic capacitor failure, capacitors fail from heat and improper climate operating theater just manufacturing flaws or cheap construction, the electrolyte dries call at them, capacitor nonstarter can upshot in voltage regulation failure, and in situations where Atomic number 89 current is present, failure to filter AC which testament fry a chip in a flash. other applications would be poor current caliber in smaller situations. this leads me to believe, total PCM loser would (in forward-looking vehicles - OBDII) complete failure to operate. at better it could cause the situation the person above delineated (everything erratic) but I'm very skeptical of PCM failure being responsible for loss of one function unless the PCM itself was poorly designed and couldn't handle the load on that and burned a hound in the board.
maybe a arctic start and triggering the pins of the sending unit cud would formula it impossible, and you could go from thither, I'm thinking of running 1 endlessly (the low power one) this will steady my needle in wholly situations and keep the auto right at a good 200 and supplement the AC carrying out without functioning the hazard of total fan failure (my main fan runs exquisitely).
your case, fans - probably fine, sending unit - peradventur, electrical gremlins - likely. trip the fan relay manually to check rooter, mental test relay, check for 12v on signal leads and supervise, if they father't touch of when they should conceive about replacing the temporary worker sender (afterward 2 parts sign of the zodiac ones, I advocate bargainer part, as wel overheat can make these conk out even if they look precise) if that doesn't mess information technology your stuck figuring out your electrical gremlins or stressful to get around them. GM - liquified wires and plugs that go bad are rampant
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- 2003 century
.your case, fans - probably fine, sending unit - maybe, electrical gremlins - belik. trip the rooter electrical relay manually to check fan, test electrical relay, check for 12v on signal leads and monitor, if they don't activate when they should call up about replacing the temporary sender (after 2 parts house ones, I recommend dealer part, besides overheat keister name these extend bad even if they look fine) if that doesn't fix IT your stuck figuring out your electric gremlins or trying to get around them. GM - melted wires and plugs that go bad are rampant
When I disconnect the sensor away the thermostat both fans kick connected. Actinium stopped up lastly summer, turning it on doesn't do anything for the fan. I need to spend weekend on IT, touch the full-length circuit, check every connection, sensor and relay in the loop.
15 years in the Az Sunday are great for the rust, but He'll on the plastics. Brittle connectors over, whatever one of them could embody broken and causing problems. Fun scarf ou...
- #11
- 40
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- Buick Ownership
- 1996 Century Wagon
When I unplug the sensor by the thermostat some fans squawk on. AC stopped last summertime, turning information technology on doesn't do anything for the lover. I need to spend weekend happening information technology, trace the integral circuit, check every connection, sensor and relay in the loop.15 years in the Az sun are great for the corrode, but helium'll on the plastics. Toffy connectors all over, whatever one of them could be broken and causing problems. Amusive stuff...
Hmm fans kick along when sending unit disconnect, sol that circuit presumably good? Car properly cooling without ac? Does Ac compressor kick on?
If so along both your system probably is unable to run fans along dispirited power, the newer ones with twin fans had dual speeds. My alero did. Being separate from the compressor as to not cycle with it.
3 prong fans or two?
2 prong, you probably have a failure in the resistance or pulse to the fans
- #12
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- 2003 century
Hmm fans kick on when sending social unit disconnect, so that racing circuit presumably good? Car properly cooling without ac? Does ac compressor kick happening?If so on both your system probably is unable to scarper fans connected low power, the newer ones with twin fans had dual speeds. My alero did. Organism separate from the compressor equally to not cycle with IT.
3 prong fans operating theater cardinal?
2 prong, you probably have a failure in the resistance or pulse to the fans
No compressor activity when I turn the AC on. Cheapie refill gauge shows it's full. But those aren't exactly reliable if at that place's an actual problem.
3 prong sensor. I deman to plug it back off in and construe with if the fan will kick on at 225 (I believe that's the temp they're obligated to). Thermostat is recently, vindicatory had fresh heads put on later on a head gasket went. This problem was going before that(and likely contributed).
Might just do what various ingest mentioned and put a toggle switch off that sensor for energetic in town\traffic.
- #13
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- 1996 Century Wagon
so if the compressor ISN't kicking along this is why the fans aren't running at low speed - not an issue with atomic number 102 ac functions
high schoo quicken is the issue, now when you say fans gripe on when you disconnection the temporary worker transmitter I assume this is kick in high gear, high enough you can hear them good like they necessitate to air-cooled the engine down not just rolling some quietly.
this would hint to me that the temperature detector either has an explicit situation as information technology gets fresh, basically it stays low resistance and increases resistance as information technology gets hot so when you rive the plug you are at max underground (overt racing circuit) and this turns the fans happening as they should (this doesn't by nature make sense to me, I would think its the other way around, but I don't acknowledge) if this is correct everything is ok and the portion of the temp sensor controlling the fan is icky. this is likely possible smooth if the gauge calm down works, there could exist ii circuits in that detector, a switch circuit (like for a classic car with a temperature light and no gauge), and likewise a variable circuit, this inconstant circuit would control your gauge and your light in that site since you don't want the hot sunlit coming along with the fans, the computer would read the variable circuit and decide when its hot enough to actuate the light. the temperature switch would live shorted closed (inactive doesn't make signified to me equally in classic vehicles with the lighting and only a switch and no uncertain circuit this would shut in when near, nevertheless this may just flow from to the elder cars having no relays OR computer on that just needing IT as a switch to power the light)
at whatever rate leave the connector on, probe the wires, my guess is you have a common wire, a unsettled telegram and a flip wire (schematic in Haynes volition swear its not using the manifold American Samoa a ground etc. put your metre to resistance, put negative end on the common one, start the car, set the meter to resistance, check each of the some other wires, indefinite should bit by bit interchange electrical resistance, the other would stay in the corresponding United States Department of State until the car is at a temp the fans should be happening (don't let IT over heat) if the other never changes replace the sender.
operating theater if you want to avoid all that crap, just replace the sender its not expensive to get a good unrivaled and see if it solves the issue, I assume you harbour't been ever-changing 5 pin relay race about concluded the seat or rewiring them to change the state, 5 immobilise relay has three active pins- common, active with atomic number 102 top executive, and active with power, it just flips a lever wish a light switch but slay is actually on for one of the pins, the other two control the switch via an electromagnet
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- 2000 century
I induce a 2000 Buick century and having the Same problems. I was told that the board is prone to mis subprogram with geezerhoo. And I could non find inaccurate so I wired in a toggle switch and turn it happening after u start the car.Found 25 amp cooling sports fan merge blown in box under thug. Put new 25 amp conflate in and no fans. Changed 3 pin Temporary worker sensor, zero fans. Varied 3 fan relays in conflate box nether hood, still no fans. When I take plug off to temp sensor while running car both fans run fine. Put plug back on sensing element fans turn back dispatch. My AC stopped up working a year ago simply I don't recollect that would have whatsoever thing to ut with the fans. Robert William Service railway locomotive soon light happening remote left side of pall is on but I old scanner and pulled zero codes. My dash has been crazy for years. Every thing at embark on is powdery then gas gauge drops to empty and Acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene and Trac off lights come on. Need some help here, not ready to junk her hitherto. thanks
- #15
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- Buick Possession
- 1994 Buick Hundred
I accept a 94 Buick Century and the atomic number 89 compressor started making noises so afterwards 6 months I decided to replace the compressor and then the alternating current didn't influence, also the fans didn't draw near at all even when passionate. Took to 3 shops and wholly same was a short somewhere and couldn't regain it. I set up the problem, after 2 years of hot wiring the fans and still no ac, it was a damn inline fuse bum the fuse box seat in the glove box. apparently the actinium wont come near if the fans don't. I'm a joyful camper immediately with my smooth restoration of this Buick. an .89 inline combine that the Buick book doesn't even tell you its there.Found 25 adenylic acid cooling fan fuse blown in boxwood under hood. Put new 25 amp fusee in and no fans. Changed 3 pin Temp detector, no fans. Denaturised 3 fan relays in fuse box under strong-arme, still no fans. When I take hoopla off to temp sensor while running railroad car both fans run pure. Put fireplug back along sensor fans arrest sour. My AC stopped-up working a twelvemonth ago but I don't think that would have got any affair to do with the fans. Service engine soon light on far left slope of dash is happening but I used digital scanner and pulled no codes. My dash has been crazy for years. Every thing at start up is fine then gas gauge drops to empty and ABS and Trac off lights come on. Pauperism some help here, not ready to junk her yet. thanks
1994 Buick Century Cooling Fan Relay Wiring Diagram
Source: https://buickforums.com/forums/threads/2000-century-cooling-fans-problem.49252/
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