Ok, I've got a 305 V8 that had a mechanical fan, but the PO wired an tense sports fan done a on/off switch switch in the cabin. I'm not keeping that. I'll forget to turn it connected.
I bought a JEGs thermostatically controlled fan controller and I plan to install that. Information technology uses a sensor that threads into a 3/8 port with a 3/4 adaptor. The only ports on my motor are already used for the temp gauge and heater hose.
Today I picked up a bizarre T-stat housing along One hundred fifty that has a 3/4 port and the spine of it. I also picked up an aluminum water pump from the same laugh at. when I got home I realized that the ticker has two 3/4 ports thereon too. One is for the heater hose, the other is not in use.
Could I mount the coolant temporary worker detector for the fan and avoid the unearthly housing, operating room does the sensor call for to be decorated up big top?
I ran one in the unused pipe-rib hole at the noncurrent of the passenger-side psyche.
Leave out the headers kept preparation it.
Under the thermoregulator housing, like you show, would be elegant.
Above the thermostat (as per just about housings in 70's-up Chevy's) would work too, since ~theoretically~ the thermostat would be opening before the fan turns on. Except if the thermoregulator doesn't open, and you'll get no buff.
Run the toggle switch in parallel, sol you can over-ride the thermostatic switch if you needed to.
I'm thinking, if you threaded into the pump, you'd be getting "cold" coolant from the rad. Which I guess the fan would ensure the coolant coming out of the radian would be truly shivery enough.
The most historic affair is to try to charm the hottest temperature of the coolant, so that it kicks on before the locomotive overheats.
snailmont5oh wrote: The most meaningful affair is to try to capture the hottest temperature of the coolant, sol that it kicks on *before* the engine overheats.
Actually while that's the best way to install a temperature gauge sensing element, for a rooter switch, I think the unexceeded location is the radiator exit. The purpose of the winnow is to boost airflow through the radiator if it's not reducing coolant temperature sufficiently. This location responds to the airflow through the radiator spell the hottest point in the coolant system (usually right where the coolant exits the engine to move on to the radiator) doesn't.
I put the fan switch sensor on my Samurai happening the radiator exit, adjusted it so that it kicks in when the coolant temperature juuust edges to a higher place normal (when idling while parked), and IT seems to work intimately.
RossD UltimaDork
1/9/17 3:40 p.m.
In reply to GameboyRMH:
In terms of a well controlled system, I believe this is the best solution. Feedback before other noise is introduced.
My choices are thermostat housing surgery water pump, I don't have an received port on the radiator itself. For packaging, i'd rather have information technology in the ticker itself.
Water pump is a bad spot, IMO unless you can latch on rectify at the return port from the radian. T-stat housing (operating theater a tee in the upper rad hose down) is ameliorate. A fitting in the lower rad hose would work too.
Get a radiator temp detector sleeve. It's not really called that. Just it's what I use. Just use the top radiator hose. Put the sleeve near the thermostat. https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Temperature-Sensor-Adapter-Silver/dp/B00FY3A2PG
I would pronounce the temporary rating of the switch will dictate the unsurpassable location. A low rated switch would make the fan always be on if settled in coolant going to the rad, and wouldn't ferment on until you're already overheated if it's a high temp rated switch along the radian way out.
Thinking almost it, the factory e-lover switches in my Landrover are an interesting study in this. It used 2 switches, some activate at 210*. One is in the upper rad hose down and turns the rooter on "low". The second is in the lower rad hose and turns the sports fan on "squeaky". That unremarkably equates to about 210 - 212 on the gauge when low kicks on and about 220 - 225 when steep kicks on.
pirate Proofreader
1/10/17 12:35 p.m.
I have my fan sensor in a position aluminum radiator hose connector with a fitting hole in the buns radiator return hose down. The sensor turns the fan on and off but I birth also wired a a sensor overide so that I can turn the winnow on and off manually. To make this forg you need a ground wire so I bared the ground wire and inserted IT between the billet aluminum connecter and radiator hose. When hose clamped it is secure, tight and doesn't passing water. Some radiators have a just muddle following to the radiator drain which could also be used for the sensor. Don't know for sure but I consider OEMs use this adjustment gob for electric fans.
I have my water temperature gauge sensor (physical phenomenon gauges) in a adjustment hole at the frontmost of the intake multiplex which is probably the area of most coolant heat. Some cylinder heads also have fitting holes for gauge temperature.
Asymptomatic, here's where it wounding up. in the new weird thermostat trapping just earlier the thermostat itself.
The switch over is a 180 degree and bequeath be paired with a 180 t-stat. I'm waiting on some hoses and gaskets before I put down information technology along the car, but it's ready to go.
180 degree switch is too cold for a 180 t-stat. Buff volition kick connected when it's fresh and never shut off. You ideally want a switch that turns on around 195 - 200, murder near 5 degrees lower. That'll kick up the fan along when the t-stat reaches in full open and shut it bump off when things cool a trifle (so the fan will cycle while unmoving silent and normally won't run happening the highway).
It's actually 185 on, 170 off. Says it's designed for use with a 180 T-stat.
AClockworkGarage wrote: It's actually 185 on, 170 off. Says IT's designed for use with a 180 T-stat.
Yea, that's definitely too cold. It'll kick on in one case the railroad car is warmed up and and so just stay along. You'll ne'er get down to the 170 winking off point. Don't forget, the t-stat starts to open at 180, it's non in full open until some 195.
My analog system used an Auto Meter temperature alternate, which was actually for an oil temp light. IT turned on at 210° and turned at 185°. The switch was on the ground side of the electrical relay, and I had a separate dry land path through with a hand-operated switch so that I could force the fan along for high heat-soak situations (90° autocross days), but temp would turn on it on if I forgot, surgery in normal situations.
Best Place for Temp Sensor for Electric Fan?
Source: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/where-does-my-fan-sensor-go/125354/page1/
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